This method may also be prone to causing a barber chair.īack to the wedges, they're going to help convince the tree to go in the direction you want it to fall. In this case, the hinge dimensions are not set until you are almost done cutting, meaning you may still be cutting while the tree is falling opposed to fleeing. Starting a back cut from the outside of the tree, cutting towards the hinge is not as safe. Leaving the trigger until last keeps the tree from sitting back on your saw, and allows you to spend less time at the base of the tree when it starts falling. Once the hinge dimensions are set, and you start back cutting, wedges may be placed in the back cut as soon as there is space to do so. Since a proper sized hinge is really important, setting the hinge dimensions while the tree is standing is important. Now, as I was taught, the direction the tree falls is controlled by the hinge. If the tree doesn't start falling after the trigger is cut, then start pounding the wedge(s) further in, tree starts falling, flee. Finish back cut leaving a small piece uncut for the trigger. Back cut and set wedges as soon as possible. Plunge cut, and set the hinge thickness. Remember, the notch is going to set the hinge length Cut the proper notch keeping the target in mind. Indentify your flight path and make sure it is clear. Choose the path you want the tree to fall and pick a target. How is the tree's weight distributed, wind load, snow load, etc. Identify the good side and bad side if any. Dead branches hanging above, nearby hung up trees, etc. Look at any hazards around the tree to be felled. I think it's good to look at the entire felling process, and using wedges are just an important part of that. Would love to talk more about the picture, but I'll behave.

Fall a small diameter tree using wedges